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Italian Dolomites Hut-to-Hut Trek

Ever wish you could travel somewhere that's so spectacular, so overwhelmingly gorgeous, that it makes all of life's worries seem small?

Saturday, September 2, 2017
Boston, MA
Moderate to Strenuous
Hosted by Gandalf

The trip report

Written by Gandalf

Ever wish you could travel somewhere that's so spectacular, so overwhelmingly gorgeous, that it makes all of life's worries seem small?

The Alta Via 1 [AV1] trek in the Italian Dolomites is that kind of place.

The past two weeks, a bunch of GOers spent their days trekking in the Dolomites followed by sightseeing in Venice including kayaking the Venice canals.

The Alta Via 1 is a walking trail through the Italian Dolomites, for 75 miles from Dobbiaco in the North to Belluno in the South. The highest point reached by the standard route is 9,029ft and the height gain on the route is around 21,833ft. It took us 8 days to complete the trek. Life on the AV1 quickly fell into a relaxing pattern. The huts were welcoming and the food excellent.

It's impossible to put into words just how breathtaking this beauty is...

So we'd like to do our best to show you. See our sample of our pictures below! We will have more pictures uploaded into our SmugMug Photo Gallery in the near future and will provide a link to it here and in an upcoming newsletter.

From soaring rock towers to grassy alpine meadows the Italian Dolomites offered us some of the most dramatic, exciting and challenging hiking areas in the Alps. Strikingly different from the French or Swiss Alps, the limestone Dolomites rise dramatically from narrow valleys to form impressive spires, canyons, sheer rock walls rising 3,000′ and huge limestone plateaus. Beginning in the Italian Sud Tirol, the hike brought us south along the high route, Alta Via 1, through the Pragser, Tofana, and Civetta mountain groups. The impressiveness of the scenery and the variety of terrain on this route is matched only by the warmth and hospitality offered by the mountain huts. The unusual contrasts in landscapes, changing colors and textures of the mountains and curious mix of Italian and Austrian influences meant fantastic hiking, stunning scenery and plenty of pasta. 
 

We could hardly believe the breathtaking views that greeted us each morning.

We started out trekking with beautiful sunny days and cool mornings. We had to cut short the trek at the end due to inclement weather. Here is a summary of our itinerary with comments:

Arrive in Dobbiaco [Nice small village with great views for the overnight stay at the start; Peter found a great restaurant specializing in Austrian cuisine.]

Stage 1: Bus to Lago di Braies. Walk to Rifugio Sennes, (8 miles), 4,419 feet ascent [We added a breathtaking climb to snowy Croda del Broco at 9,219 feet; we could hardly eat all the food that was served at dinner in the Rifugio. The cooler temperatures resulted with the Dolomites dusted with snow!]

Stage 2: Walk to Garni Ai Pini Hotel in the village of San Cassiano, (11.4 miles), 1995 feet ascent [A laidback stroll along former military roads and across undulating stony pasture uplands, became, little by little, more enthralling as all manner of Dolomites are approached!]

Stage 3: Walk to Rifugio Lagazuoi with a stay in Hotel Ambra in the village of Cortina d’Ampezzo, (5miles), 3,366 feet ascent [We entered the dramatic and breathtaking Cortina Dolomites not that it’s been too bad thus far! A tiring climb concluded at the highest point on the AV1 Rifugio Lagazuoi with an elevation of 9,028 feet that has an unrivalled vantage point; lunch at the Rifugio was delicious and our descent down the semi-dark wartime rock tunnels with our headlamps was one of the highlights of our trek. It was fun exploring the village of Cortina d’Ampezzo.]  

Stage 4: Walk to Rifugio Nuvolau, (8.7 miles), 2,952 feet ascent [We embarked on a memorable traverse below the awesome Tofana di Rozes, dropped to Cortina-Passo Falzerego and then climbed through forest to the fascinating, renowed Cinque Torri area, with a magnificent conclusion at lookout par excellence Rifugio Nuvolau. Viewing the sunrise with an undercast in the morning was one of the highlights of our trek!]

Stage 5: Walk to Rifugio Citta' di Fiume, (9.5 miles), 1,312 ascent [We started with a nerve wracking short via ferrata to get us over the rocky realms of the Nuvolau, crossed the road pass Passo Giau and then had a few moderate climbs that lead to a magnificent open pasture basin, once the hunting ground of Mesolithic men. Panoramas were non-stop as a brilliant line-up of Dolomites came into view!]

Stage 6: Walk to Rifugio Vazzoler, (11 miles), 2,460 feet ascent [A spectacular traverse gave us ample time to appreciate the Pelmo from close quarters with a straightforward way via a road pass for a stiff climb to a superbly run alpine hut, Rifugio Coldai where we had an excellent lunch. We then had an absolutely brilliant stage spent appreciating the phenomenal Civetta, one of the most impressive Dolomite formations!]

Stage 7: Walk to Rifugio Sommariva al Pramperet, (12.5 miles) [Due to pouring rain, we decided not to hike this stage and spent another night at Rifugio Vazzoler.]

Stage 8: Walk to La Stanga. Bus to Belluno, (11 miles) [We took the exit route to Listolade from Rifugio Vazzoler by following a jeep track and then a surfaced road. We then hopped on a bus to Belluno. We enjoyed the pleasant alpine village of Belluno and submitted our rifugi stamps collected en route at the Tourist Office to obtain our well-earned AV1 badge!]

Depart from Belluno to Venice. [Jon and I included some pictures of our Venice kayaking adventure exploring the canals of Venice.]

We had a brilliant time and we can’t thank enough the GOers spirit and adventure for making this a memorable trip!!! Thanks to: Rob, Jim, Peter, Richard and Bob.  

We invite you to see the adventure we've had by viewing a sample of our pictures below. We will have more pictures uploaded into our SmugMug Photo Gallery in the near future and will provide a link to it here and in an upcoming newsletter. 

~ Mike and Jon

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About this event

The Alta Via 1 is a walking trail through the Italian Dolomites, for 75 miles from Dobbiaco in the North to Belluno in the South. The highest point reached by the standard route is 9,029ft and the height gain on the route is around 21,833ft. It will take us 8 days to complete the trek. Life on the AV1 quickly falls into a relaxing pattern. The huts are welcoming and the food excellent.

From soaring rock towers to grassy alpine meadows the Italian Dolomites offers some of the most dramatic, exciting and challenging hiking areas in the Alps. Strikingly different from the French or Swiss Alps, the limestone Dolomites rise dramatically from narrow valleys to form impressive spires, canyons, sheer rock walls rising 3,000′ and huge limestone plateaus. Beginning in the Italian Sud Tirol, the hike leads south along the high route, Alta Via 1, through the Pragser, Tofana, and Civetta mountain groups. The impressiveness of the scenery and the variety of terrain on this route is matched only by the warmth and hospitality offered by the mountain huts. The unusual contrasts in landscapes, changing colors and textures of the mountains and curious mix of Italian and Austrian influences means fantastic hiking, stunning scenery and plenty of pasta. This YouTube video will give you flavor of the trek. 

Jon and I have decided to do the entire Alta Via 1 trek for our vacation flying over Saturday, September 2nd on a ‘red-eye’ flight from Boston and flying back Thursday, September 14th. We’ve been working with Alpine Exploratory to contact all of the hotels and huts we would need to stay in. You have the option to stay in Venice for a couple of days after the trek and we can share with you the hotel we are staying in if you’d like to hang out with us. [The Thursday return is based upon spending an additional two nights in Venice.]

THIS IS A MODERATE TO STRENUOUS TREK. Because this is a moderate to strenuous hike, we will not accept everyone who signs up. We’ll be asking you a series of questions as to your hiking experience and fitness level. For example, if you’ve recently climbed a peak like with Mt. Washington that requires climbing up 4,000 feet in one day, you would probably qualify. If not, we would need a history of mountains you’ve climbed in 2016 that makes you think you qualify.

Here is the trekking itinerary:

Arrive in Dobbiaco

Stage 1: Bus to Lago di Braies. Walk to Rifugio Sennes, (6 miles), 925m ascent, 270m descent

Stage 2: Walk to Rifugio Fanes, (6 miles), 530m ascent, 580m descent

Stage 3: Walk to Rifugio Lagazuoi, (7 miles), 1215m ascent, 565m descent

Stage 4: Walk to Rifugio Nuvolau, (9 miles), 870m ascent, 1050m descent

Stage 5: Walk to Rifugio Citta' di Fiume, (9.5 miles), 490m ascent, 1130m descent

Stage 6: Walk to Rifugio Vazzoler, (11 miles), 750m ascent, 950m descent

Stage 7: Walk to Rifugio Sommariva al Pramperet, (12.5 miles), 1110m ascent, 965m descent

Stage 8: Walk to La Stanga. Bus to Belluno, (11 miles), 815m ascent, 2230m descent

Depart from Belluno

This is a self-guided trip but they book all the transportation to and from the trek, hotels/huts along the way, and provide us with maps/route maps [and assistance if we run into any issues during the trek]. Jon and I have trekked the Tour Du Mont Blanc, Alta Via II and Haute Route so we are quite familiar with trekking in Europe. That said, we don’t consider ourselves experts, especially since we’ve never trekked the Alta Via I before so incidents may happen such as missing a bus/train, making a wrong turn on the trek itself and encountering bad weather.  

Since we are not returning to the start, we will be using our backpack to carry everything. No luggage transfers…we carry everything in our pack. We did this for previous treks and did not have any problems. Basically we wore the same clothes often but made sure we had a set of clothes for travelling/relaxing at the hut. It made travelling so much easier in the airports and travelling to/from the trek. The packs should weigh between 20-25 pounds.     

Price per person: $890 Euro (based on double occupancy) Exchange rate as of 12/20/16 makes the price at $925. For a single supplement it’s an additional $60 Euro.

What’s included:

  • 9 nights’ accommodations at two small hotels and 7 mountain huts
  • Meals included are all breakfasts plus evening meals as all the mountain huts

Travel to Dobbiaco and from Belluno is not included in the price – it’s up to us to make the arrangements that suit us best. Our arrival and departure will be from the Venice airport. For lunches there is lots of opportunity to stock up on ingredients along the route. We will often find huts and cafés during the walking, useful for lunch stops.

The mountain huts provide showers and beer/wine for purchase. You’ll be sharing a room with another person in the hotels. While 4 of these huts have to be in dormitories with bunk beds, at the other 3 huts we have the chance to book smaller rooms and the outfitter is often successful on 2, 3 of these. We could get lucky and have private rooms with only two people. We could end up being a large group and the huts normally only have a couple of private rooms but they will try their best to get them when they can. 

Then the trek itself with huts/hotels, dinner and breakfast will run about $925. In addition, we’ll need extra money for lunches, travel to and from starting point/ending point, beverages [wine/beer], shower tokens, laundry, etc. so allow roughly $200-$350 for these costs. Then if you add the airfare, we are looking around $1,780 per person. I’m not including spending a couple of nights with meals in Venice should you choose to do this.  

We would need $200 deposit at the end of February if you wish to join us. Please note that this is NON-REFUNDABLE! I’ll provide the outfitter with all the names but you’ll be booking with them separately as to making payments. The balance would be due nine weeks prior to our departure. If you are single and would like to partner with someone contact another member who signed up and let us know. 

Who came along (5)

Gandalf SUSTAINING
Gandalf
Thornton, NH
A member
Profile hidden
go4itPete GUEST MEMBER
go4itPete
San Francisco, CA
A member
Profile hidden
Bobcat SUSTAINING
Bobcat
Upton, MA

Comments

Gandalf · Dec 22, 2016
We would actually start the trek on September 6th [it takes 2 days to get to the start between flights and bus transportation], reach Belluno on September 13th, and return to Venice on September 14th.
Gandalf · Dec 24, 2016
We are now starting the trek in Dobbiaco September 4th [it takes 2 days to get to the start between flights and bus transportation], reach Belluno at the end on September 11th, and return to Venice on September 12th.
Gandalf · Dec 29, 2016
Jon and I are excited you will be joining us for the Dolomites trek…we are taking a chance opening up to the GO membership but so far we are happy with who will be joining us…you will be making the deposit with the outfitter directly online after the end of February once I’ve provided them with all the names and who you want the roommate to be. I'll provide you the details at the end of February.
Gandalf · Dec 30, 2016
High season would be the summer months, prior to Labor Day, but there is not any harm at looking at flights sooner rather than later. Everyone is welcome to watch airfares and share with everyone else what they are finding. Jon and I historically have been booking our flights in early March.
go4itPete · Dec 30, 2016
on my first comment: There is an Alta Via1 in the Aosta area of Northern Italy as well, but we are planning to walk the Alta Via1 in the Cortina area. Our start and destination points make that clear. I wrote Aosta area in previous comment. Either one would be spectacular. Last year we did stay at Refugio Nuvolau for 3 nights. Nearby there are 2 'Klettersteige' 'via ferrata'. Are we planning on climbing on any 'via ferrata' on our trip? Pete
Gandalf · Dec 31, 2016
Especially of note in the Dolomites, an area famous for its via ferrata, there are no via ferrata sections on our AV1; we take the variant to La Stanga which avoids a via ferrata on the Schiara. There are however some sections where the path crosses rocky and steep ground, plus sections with metal cables as handrails over normal Alpine walking terrain.
Scorpione · Jan 1, 2017
Avoiding ferrate seems appropriate as they "require" harness and helmet for safety. Yes they are exhilarating.
Choice of roommates: not a problem for me
Will submit a gay B&B in Venice for reference. American friends liked it.
Pleased I was not frowned upon as an MS among (so far ) VS and S. (Sounds like the diamond scale).
E - I translations offered free of charge. And Happy New Year to All. Luciano
Gandalf · Feb 11, 2017
Dates and itinerary:
9/2 Fly out of Boston for overnight flight
9/3 Arrive in Venice and take bus to Dobbiaco
9/4 Start trek, Stage 1
9/5 Stage 2
9/6 Stage 3
9/7 Stage 4
9/8 Stage 5
9/9 Stage 6
9/10 Stage 7
9/11 Stage 8 reach Belluno
9/12 Depart for home or join us for overnight in Venice
9/13 Day and overnight in Venice
9/14 Jon and I take flight back to Boston
Gandalf · Feb 11, 2017
Outfitter is only booking accommodations starting for the first night in Dobbiaco, all mountain huts and then the last night in Belluno. Otherwise, you are on your own to make any other additional accommodations. For the two nights we are spending in Venice, Jon & I will be at the Best Western...you are welcome to stay there with us by booking your accommodations or find another location...we can still sightsee in Venice together.
Gandalf · Feb 11, 2017
Contact other participants and let me know who you plan to share a room with the entire journey by the end of the month. I need to let the outfitter know this so he is aware when you sign up at his website by the end of the month. Bob, I know you will be paying extra for a single room supplement for the entire journey...I believe it's an extra 60 euro for this option.
Gandalf · Feb 12, 2017
Got some clarification. "We'll always try our best to get private rooms in the huts that have them but it really just comes down to luck. If you could make it clear that private rooms would be a nice bonus rather than the expectation that would be really appreciated to avoid disappointment. We don't charge extra for private rooms as the price difference isn't so great."
Gandalf · Feb 12, 2017
The single supplement of 60 euro is only for the hotel rooms, per night for the hotel room at the beginning, Dobbiaco and at the end, Belluno. Bob, Rich, and Rob, please let me know if you still want a single supplement for the hotel rooms for a total of 120 euro. Pete and Luciano, let me if you what a shared room or a single room for the hotel rooms and pay the 120 euro extra.
Gandalf · Feb 12, 2017
Otherwise, expect to stay in bunk rooms in the huts unless we get lucky…the earlier we book the better chance we have of getting private rooms…which is why I we have a target deadline of the end of February to send in the deposits. Please note, that if private rooms do open up in the bunk rooms, Jon and I have first priority, as trip leaders. We’ll let you guys ‘duke it out’ as to whom gets them if any more open up.
A member · Feb 12, 2017
Guys, I'm available to share the hotel rooms (for anyone that does NOT get up 4 am to putter)! Looking forward to Sept 2! Rich
A member · Feb 12, 2017
Guys, I'm available to share the hotel rooms (for anyone that does NOT get up 4 am to putter)! Looking forward to Sept 2! Rich
A member · Feb 12, 2017
Not sure how I always manage to always post twice...
Gandalf · Feb 23, 2017
After you fill out the booking form, you'll get a follow email that includes a Code with a Link to pay your deposit by credit card. Don't forget this step because this how you pay!

I received Key Trip & Travel Notes after I filled out the booking form and I'm assuming everyone will as well. If not, let me know and I'll share it with everyone.

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