Kilkenny Ridge Backpack

Friday:

Before we could start our backpack there were some logistics to be taken care of. Stephen and I met at the Owl’s head trail parking lot in Jefferson, NH and drove up Old Cherry Mtn. Rd to secure one of the first come first serve camping spots. After putting up a tent we headed to the northern terminus of our hike and spotted a car at Second pond in Stark, NH. There was some confusion as to where to park as the road to the parking lot was gaited after the Labor day weekend. At the recommendation of a local resident we parked the car in a small area before the gate. We headed back to the Owl’s head parking lot where we met Robert about 2.5 hours after starting out. It was a pleasant night of camping on Old Cherry Mtn road. Good sleeping weather, rather mild under a starry night and absolutely quiet.

Saturday:

Well rested, we got up at 6, packed our things and went to the Waterwheel in Jefferson, NH. The breakfast there couldn’t be a better deal for hikers, good food, huge portions (an omelette consists of 6 eggs!) at super low prices. Three happy campers with happy stomachs headed to the Waumbek trail head, starting our hike at about 7:45. 

We had a beautiful late summer day, rather warm with a touch of humidity, yet the trees already showed the first touch of fall color. The Kilkenny Ridge Trail took us over Starr King, Waumbek, the three Weeks, Terrace Mtn (again 3 separate summits) and finally up Cabot. The scenery was stunningly beautiful. We had great views of the Presidential range and surrounding areas off of several peaks. The section between Waumbek and Cabot is less traveled with a remote wilderness feeling. Except for the exceptional blowdown we had to climb over, the trail was easy to follow and we made quick progress. Just before North Weeks’ peak we found a good water source, filled up with water and had lunch on the summit.

Our original plan was to camp in the notch between Terrace Mtn and Cabot. Online trip reports indicated there would be water and some camp spots, just that we couldn’t find any, neither water nor any flat spots for tents. At this point clouds had rolled in and we felt a few drops of rain. We decided to head up Cabot Mtn and check out the cabin there. It felt like a grueling climb at the end of the day, but we had made good progress and reached the cabin a little after 4 pm. There was one other hiker there, and there was space for us (the cabin has only 4 sleeping platforms). We totally lucked out. The forecast had called for thunderstorms overnight and we did not have to worry about rain. We were a little low on water, but we shared and there was plenty for dinner, breakfast and some left over for hiking out the next morning. With our cabin mate (straight), we had great conversation, had some drinks and played games. What a perfect way to end the day after a 15 mile hike.

Sunday:

There was a little bit of rain overnight with some lightning in the distance. Again, it was super mild and still a little humid even at 4000 ft elevation. We took our time to have breakfast and were back on the trail just before 8. 

Today we had to deal with rain. Right after we passed the summit of Cabot a little distance beyond the cabin, we heard thunder. When the first drops fell, there was very little time to don our rain gear before the downpours started. We hiked over “The Bulge” and “The Horn”, both on the list of the 100 highest mountains in New England. The Horn is on a short side trail and at that point the rain came down particularly heavy. But the mountain is on the 100 list so we had to go! In good weather The Horn has beautiful views, but not today and we headed back down very quickly. Despite the rain, we stayed in good spirits and hiked on at a steady pace.

The other highlights of the day were passing 3 guys carrying up a flag and pole for “Flags of the 48” (it was Sept 11 and a flag is flown on every 4000 footer of NH). The trail took us past picturesque Unknown Pond. There were scenic beaver ponds with bog bridges soon after. The rain had stopped, but we were still wet and a little cold at that time. Soon the climb up to Rodger’s Ledge warmed us up again. Reaching the top, the sun was peaking through the clouds and we were treated to some views. We had lunch and started our descend off the ridge. The sun was back out, everything dried off very quickly (except our boots) and our trek back to the car was pure hiking delight. Now again in sunny weather, the trail descended at a light pitch for about 4 miles ending at at post card perfect South Pond. A (not so short) road walk took us back to our car which we reached by 2 pm. Today’s mileage added up to about 10.

We  drove back to the Waumbek parking lot, freshened up and finished the day with a sumptuous meal at Fabyan’s in Bretton Woods. Thanks Robert and Stephen for joining me on this adventure, for the good companionship and for keeping each other in a good mood during the rain.

The Kilkenny Ridge Trail traverses some of the most wild and remote scenery in the White Mountains and provides a 23 mile route (7,350 feet elevation gain) for backpackers interested in avoiding the crowds of day hikers who frequent the southern and central Whites. The region is a joy to hike due to its varied terrain and undeniably wild appearance. We will climb over two of the NH 4000 footers: Waumbek and Cabot and four of the New England 100 highest: Mt. Weeks, Mt. Weeks South Peak, The Horn (a short side trail) and The Bulge. Open ledges and summits provide magnificent views of the entire end-to-end ridge. The trail is moderately difficult with many steep climbs, moss-covered rock, and wet footing after a rain. Trail maintenance is less frequent than typical trails in the Whites and we may encounter some fallen trees to climb over and overgrown conditions.

We’ll hike 12-14 miles on Saturday, camp at a primitive camp site. On Sunday, we’ll hike over Cabot to South Pond (10 - 11 miles) and car pool back to the Waumbek trail head.

What to bring:

Note: there are long dry stretches, so bring extra water bottles, at least 3 liters.

Typical backpacking gear is required: Backpack, 3 season sleeping bag, sleeping pad, backpacking tent or bivy, 10 + essentials for hiking (do a search on the internet), filled water bottles, water filtration or purification, backpack stove, cookware and utensils, bear bag, provisions for 2 days/1 nights, trail snacks, headlamp, layered clothing for expected conditions and rain gear, toiletries (suntan lotion, insect repellent).

Meeting time and place:

Officially, we’ll meet Saturday morning at the Waumbek parking lot at 8:30 (directions below).

You can also meet us for breakfast at the Water Wheel at 7 am (www.waterwheelnh.com 1955 Presidential Highway, US Route 2, Jefferson, NH 03583).

Spotting cars: Stephen and I will spot one car on Friday evening. If we need additional cars, I’ll be in touch via email. You are welcome to drive up Friday afternoon and meet us by arrangement.